It is my Rainbow Nougat dress. This pattern was kindly given to me by AnaJan of Stepalica to make.
I leapt at the chance to challenge myself. And it was a challenge, but in a good way. When reading through the instructions I was inspired by the suggestion to make a rainbow version.
I made a rough mock up in paint as seen below to get the balance of colours. I knew the main skirt would be green (my favourite) and just cycled through the rainbow from there.
I had to grade up the pattern one size based on my measurements at the time. I was worried about this with so many pieces but it was actually easy as the multi-panel bodice is actually one pattern piece that you trace off the different sections adding your seam allowance. I also did not want the diamond in the middle of the chest as I thought I has enough on my chest as it is. So I hacked the pattern a little more to make all the “triangles” meet in the middle
I did make a muslin as I was concerned about the fit. I used the lining which is a simple bodice with a Y shaped dart at the bottom. I am glad I did this as I had to re-cut the skirt with a bit more room in the waist/hips for my booty. I did a split as shown below with the original yoke piece over the new.For the bodice I cut the pieces two at a time and sewed each as I cut them so I didn’t get confused. I traced the pieces out using carbon and a tracing wheel, then I added on the seam allowance to cut out. I also changed things a little which means my sides do not match perfectly as I folded my bodice and back down the middle and made each half identical instead of the more spiral designed by Ana.
I started this dress in late August, I got it almost finished at my sewing weekend away at the start of October, and then I scared. Scared that I had done all this work and it would not fit, scared that it would look ridiculous on, and scared that I would get this close the finishing and I would make a big mistake. So it went to the bottom of the pile.
Finally I got brave, and knowing I had lost 5kgs I sewed up my side seams with the smallest seam allowance…and it was too big, so I made them a normal seam allowance that I had cut it for, and it fits, and could probably go a little smaller but I didn’t want to push my luck. The darts are a little pointy, but I think with everything else going on in this dress they are not a big problem. The Rainbow Nougat got its debut at the WSBN Christmas picnic
Above is up close with the detail of the spiral and darts. Below the side views.
I love the end result but this Rainbow was a rollercoaster ride of sewing.